samedi 31 juillet 2010

GEARBOX COVER



as you can see this one is also rusty
i have machined a new finned cover.
the fins have no utility but have a best look than a plain cover

COVER AGAIN




the valve rocker inspection cover has been replaced by a strange alloy cover.
i don't like it neither . for this spare an old hd regulator will be a good donor.
i like this solution

TAPPET COVER



the tappet setting cover have a rusty look that i don't like
i found an finned alloy cover at SRM engineering.at this time , i was not able to do this kind of spares.now it's possible

THANK YOU


well, today the postman is my friend
thank's to Scarlett, Bob and Matt.

vendredi 30 juillet 2010

CLUTCH BRACKET




as you can see in the pic , the gearbox clutch setting is broken. i can't weld alloy so i have decided to build another spare (stainless steel again) who will be bolt on the main bracket

MISCELLANEOUS SPARES 2



always in stainless steel
the fork stop and the side stand

MISCELLANEOUS SPARES

this is the brake fluid tank.like the other spares
it's stainless steel .i make it with a tube 33 mm od
with 2 caps welded

mercredi 28 juillet 2010

FOOTPEG / DRIVE SIDE





well, this side is more hard to do than the other
the footpeg bracket is on the belt drive.
i need a brake pump but i dont know
where i can put it.i decide to build the peg like an old pedal.
i make the bracket with a tube dia 28 mm id and build my pump
i find an old MAGURA pump to be the donor
i'm not able to do the seal. the body is in bronze.
then i include the pump in the stainless tube.
i must build a special 90 degree fitting, after 2 test,
it's OK
now i need to weld this assembly in the gearbox bracket
normally i weld my spares myself but when i want THE WELD
i go to see Phil from Phil inox design (see card).
before welding i drill the bracket for the brake line.
i build the lever later.

FOOTPEG / TIMING SIDE




now i must build the footpeg
forward control was my first idea but due at the little size of the bike
it's not possible to do nice work in this way.
so i decide to put them between the engine and the gearbox.footpeg is homemade with bronze and stainless steel.
as you can see , i will have problem with the gearlever. it's hard to do himself and here nobody was able to do it like i want.
QM from BRITISHIRONWORKS send me this spare (center pic) thank's again my friend.
with that i will do a little system to install the gear lever in the footpeg axe.
not a big problem now

mardi 27 juillet 2010

PRIMARY DRIVE



now the stainless spares are done
exentric system is functional but
can be better. one more time i see this prob later

GEARBOX BRACKETS



after a lot of problems i build the prototypes in alloy
that's more easy
for the displacement of the gearbox
i will try to do it with exentrics .why not ?
due at the complexity of the spares they will be lazer cut
during the same time i 've bought a belt drive for the primary
at SRM engineering (good adress)

ROLLING CHASSIS



i 've machined 2 alloy frame cups
to put an old xl fork. i 've no other choice at this time
i would like to build a stainless girdler fork but i don't ha ve time for the moment
as you can see the front wheel need a big restoration
i will do it later

OIL TANK





during the time of reflexion for brackets
i start the oil tank and his bracket
due at the "small" size of the engine
i 've decided to put it in long
my first idea was to do it with an old copper shell of the ww 2
but it' too heavy
at last i do it with 2 stainless steel canteen jugs 1 mm thickness .after machining all the spares
i go to see my good friend Phil to weld the tank+the drain.. ect
when the tank is done i must create something
to locate him property
after 10 sheets of draws approx
i decide to do it with round dia 10 mm to support the bottom of the tank
good finish but crazy job
link to Phil inox design card on the right
must be seen

lundi 26 juillet 2010

SUPPORTS BOITE


l'avant terminé maintenant il faut relier tout ca au tube arrière tout en permettant à la boite de reculer pour la tension de transmission primaire qui , elle, fait partie des 97 % manquants
le point inférieur de la boite est soudé sur la traverse du cadre

front brackets are OK
now i must create the rear brackets including the gearbox move for the primary
the bottom mount of the gearbox and engine are OK

FIN DE L'EPISODE


voila le résultat il ne reste plus qu'a fabriquer les vis et les écrous en pas fin mais ça c'est pour plus tard
well it's done
later i will do stainless steel bolts and nuts in metric fine

SUPPORTS TOUJOURS



je perce le cadre à l'axe et j'implante un montage
les douilles alu remplacent le moteur
puis alignement dans tous les sens avant calage puis soudure

now i drill the frame at the axe
i've build a assembly to work without the engine
then settings to be right in all the ways
weld and paint one more time

SUPPORTS MOTEUR 2eme


je n'ai conservé qu'une fixation avant du cadre
qui est dans l'axe de la vis centrale du carter
lorsque les "oreilles " des platines sont à l'axe du cadre


i keep only one of the stock motormount who have a good axe with the cranckcase when my brackets are in the frame axe
see pics , if not i 'm affraid that 's not understandable

SUPPORTS MOTEUR


le problème de pompe a huile étant reglé je vais passer à l'implantation
du moteur dans le cadre. pas simple
fabrication de 2 platines en inox ep 8 mm
pour relier l'avant du moteur au cadre


now the frame alteration is done
the engine will go in the frame. not really easy
i cut 2 brackets in stainless steel 8 mm
to connect the cranckcases and the frame

LE CADRE 2eme



bon c'est parti
je coupe un secteur du cadre en biais
puis je fais 2 gueules de loup à la meuleuse
je chauffe un rond de diam 20 mm pour en faire un U évasé
qui va s'emboiter dans l'empreinte
après soudure de l'ensemble et appret pour que ça ne rouille pas

well let's go
i cut a piece of the frame oblique
then i form a round dim 20 mm to do a U oblique too
after that welding an painting to prevent rust

LE CADRE


l'achat du cadre représente un budget mais n'ayant pas de marbre a disposition
et étant par ailleurs diminué au niveau des bras c'était le meilleur choix
la on voit tout de suite qu'il ne va pas rentrer
il va falloir couper le bas du cadre pour passer la pompe a huile
ça commence.......

buying a frame is expensive but i dont have the tools to build it correctly and i'm not able to do that because of the medical problems i have with my arms, . so it was my best choice
in pic you can see a prob with oil pump
crap start

ET UN DE PLUS


bonjour à tout le monde
c'est mon tour d'ouvrir un blog
sujet principal :le retour à la vie d'un BSA b 31 de 1955
le reste on verra par la suite
la moto:
incomplète à 97 % mais les 3 % présents devraient suffire
le moteur-la boite-les papiers
le choix du cadre n'a pas été simple
j'ai d'abord essayé un vieux cadre AMEN que j'avais en stock mais le moteur passait à travers
on l'a vite oublié
un autre essai sur un cadre supposé de japonaise n'a pas été plus concluant
à la fin j'ai fini par acheter un cadre Paughco pour xl que j'ai tranché .

well by popular demand, i put an english traduction , please be indulgent.
i 've started this project with a bike incomplete at 97 % but the 3% presents
must be enought i 've the engine+the gearbox+ the papers
pick a frame was nt easy
at first i try an old AMEN frame but the engine was lost in it. quickly forgotten
second try with a japanese rigid frame not more good
at last i decide to buy a PAUGHCO frame for xl and cut it.